Don’t Mention Blade Runner While in Tokyo Challenge

Aw FUCK

April 16, 2023 | Tokyo, Japan

The gate to the Meiji Jingu (Shrine)

After a procession of tiny cars featuring a slate of politicians hand rumbled away from the turnaround outside, I proceeded into the park toward the Meiju Shrine.

The Meiji Restoration - the return of the Emperor of Japan to a place of power, rather than the shogunate military ruling in an isolated feudal system - represents one of the most astounding shifts in a national polity and international power in the history of the world. In 1853, when American Commodore Matthew Perry forced the nation open at literal gunpoint, Japan was a fractious, backward feudal state ripe for colonization by the rapacious European powers. By 1868, Japan was a powerful, rapidly industrializing nation, united under an constitutional monarchy and poised to become a rapacious colonial power itself.

Basically, they did a speedrun of the construction of a modern capitalist state. It’s why he has a kickin pad for the afterlife.

The runup to it is quite beautiful, with green filtered light from the overarching canopy and giant tanks of alcohol flanking the path.

Sake and (grape) wine, respectively.

A later tour guide will describe the donation of alcohol - specifically sake - to shrines and temples as an ancient tradition of securing and preserving the occasional rice surplus and ensure (and probably give rise to) practices and rituals that involve the distribution of that alcohol.

On my walk back it started raining, then hailing. The effect on crowds was nearly instant - the nearly ubiquitous clear umbrellas come out.

Take a quick second to look toward the vanishing horizon of humanity toward the center of this photograph. Maneuvering in this crowd is often slow but faster than you would expect because of common practices like passing on the left - oh yeah they drive on the left just like the previous countries, I’ll get used to it just in time to flip it when I get to Korea

I stopped at a library in the area before heading back on the short subway ride to Shinjuku, pulled out my iPad to write, and broke a consistent rule in Japanese libraries: they are for reading books and magazines - computer use is forbidden. You are supposed to go to an internet cafe for that kind of thing.

Either a paralyzing sense of politeness, or the fact it was pretty close to closing time anyway, I avoided getting kicked out. I only learned about any of this in my subsequent visits to other libraries in the country.

I got some writing done and decided to check Twitter to see what advertisers targeting Japan had not yet abandoned it.

If you guessed “a weird anime game that tries to teach you programming languages” you would be correct. Come be an engineer and live alone with an android in a world where engineers die (???)

Before returning home for the evening I hit up the famous Shinjuku Golden Gai, where you can eat almost any grilled meat you can imagine on a stick at like 87645 tiny shops crammed into the same two alleys and if it is raining a little you can pretend you live in Blade Runner

Prior to redevelopment much of Tokyo apparently looked more like this. If you are wondering how they avoided redevelopment and/or being burned down by the yakuza, it’s because they are a union/cooperative that literally guarded the place day and night in the 80s.

Tomorrow I have a date with an Onsen and kind of with a guy? In a platonic way. Probably. We’ll see!